Finding a Reputable Breeder
Listed are some guidelines to help you make the determination that the breeder you are talking to is committed to the betterment of their breed.
A reputable breeder requires that pet quality animal be spayed or neutered. Be wary of breeders who tell you that all of their puppies are show quality in a
A reputable breeder requires a contract, which varies from breeder to breed, but usually spells out the rights of the seller and the buyer, health information,
altering and buy back/return policy. They will gladly send you a copy in advance for your review.
That they show a general interest in, love for, and knowledge about the breed. They care about placing puppies in good homes and will often interview
potential buyers thoroughly, have a questionnaire.
They will tell you about the good and bad points about their breed. They will make sure if their breed is the right breed for you or suggest one that would
better suite your life style.
A reputable breeder will guarantee a puppy's general health for certain period of time. While no one can guarantee against inheritable diseases 100% since
most of the time they are recessive genes. They will be well-informed about the genetic problems in their particular breed and bloodlines, routinely have their
dogs tested for problems, and have this information readily available to give to potential puppy buyers. Beware of breeders who scoff at genetic testing and
say that their particular breed or bloodlines are problem free.
The place (kennel or home) where the breeder keeps the puppies and dogs should be clean and well maintained. Be leery of breeders who will not let you see
where the dogs and puppies are kept and insist on bringing them out to you only.
A reputable breeder is actively involved in dog sports, including showing, performance, and dog clubs. Most will belong to their National Breed Club. They are
willing to provide answers to all of your questions. They are willing to provide references and names of other people who have purchased puppies.
A reputable breeder will allow you to meet the puppy's parents and grandparents if they are available, if not available willing to show you photos. Some stud
dogs are unavailable if out of state or are on a show circuit. Many breeders today with modern technology are using shipped chilled or frozen semen and will
have information available on these dogs.
They will follow up on their puppies. They are interested in how the pups develop physically and mentally, difficulties with the puppies, and health problems.
They will encourage you to bring your puppies to Puppy Kindergarten and obedience classes.
Before calling or seeing the breeder, please make a list of your questions you wish to ask. This way you will not forget to ask any important questions. The
breeder should be able to tell you about each of the individual puppies in the litter. A reputable breeder has observed each puppy while raising them and has
made notes on the personality of each puppy.
Before Buying a Puppy
A dog is for life, think twice before buying a puppy. Here are some things to ask yourself or think about before buying a puppy.
Labrador Breed Standard and Characteristics - What is the AKC recognized standard for the breed?
Enjoying Your Older Dogs In Their Golden Years
Chesapeake Bay Retriever Breed Information
Common Questions About Labrador's
Answers to such questions as "What colors are there?" and "What grooming do they need?"
What colors do Labrador's come in?
Labs come in three basic colors - Black, Chocolate, and yellow. The chocolates will vary in shades form dark Hershey chocolate to a light brown. The yellows
will also vary from a washed out cream color to a fox red.
Do Labrador's smell?
Labrador's do have an oily coat. This allows them to repel water. If you keep any dog in your home a basic grooming and hygiene program should be
followed. Whether your Labrador swims every day or not a regular bathing program with a mild shampoo should be followed.
Do Labrador's need to be brushed?
Yes and should be brushed once a week. This will help distribute the oil in their coats, keep your Lab cleaner, and shedding very manageable. Labs will blow coat approximately twice a
year. At this time more brushing may be required. While brushing check for fleas and ticks.
What other basic grooming and maintenance is required for a Labrador? Labrador's are basically a low maintenance dogs. They require very little maintenance. Besides the weekly
brushing and an occasional bath, please remember to clean ears, brush teeth, cut nails, check for fleas and ticks regularly. If you are not able to clean ears and cut nails yourself, please
have your vet do these during your regular visits.
Can I allow my Labrador to swim in my pool?
Yes the chlorine will do some damage to their coat. Dryness of the coat and skin will occur. It is best to hose down your dog at the end of the swim for the day. It is also recommended to
bath your dog at least once a month to get out all the chlorine.
When can my puppy start to swim?
Your puppy can start swimming at 8 weeks of age if during the spring, summer, or fall. Start your puppies in the shallow area where they can walk in. Never allow your puppy to be left
unattended by a pool or body or water.
How much exercise is required?
Labrador's are a medium to high energy breed. Most Labrador's are active outside and calm in the home if you have an adequate exercise program. If given daily walks and some fun
retrieves your Labrador will be a happy companion.
Can I have a Labrador in an apartment?
Yes, as long as you give your Labrador adequate exercise such as walks, trips to the doggie park, jogging when old enough, retrieving in the park. Since most people walk in the cities
their dogs in many cases get more exercise than those in the country.
Buying a Puppy
A dog is for life, think twice before buying a puppy.
Here are some things to ask yourself before buying a puppy. Too many puppies and dogs end up in shelters because the buyer didn't think before he bought or it wasn't a good match
breed vs owner.
Don't hurry. Think before you buy. A puppy is for life 12 - 15 years commitment. Be sure that all members of the family want a puppy or dog. If just one doesn't want one right now then
the time isn't right.
Read more than one book, don't base your whole understanding of a breed on one generic description. Read books on puppy raising and dog training. Narrow your breed choice to only
one or two breeds that fit your life style.
See the breed in person to see what the puppy will look like as an adult. Contact the National Breed Club through the American Kennel Club. Basic information on the breed is available
through their website or through the club Secretary. Ask to be refereed to a local club representative who can answer all your questions.
Request names of local breeders from the National Breed Club. Attend local dog shows or performance events in which the bred participates. This will give you a good idea of the puppy as
an adult. Be honest with the breeder you contact about your level of knowledge on the breed, puppies, and dogs. Before calling the breeder make a list of the questions you want to ask.
See the section on FAQ for Breeders.
Inform the breeder if you are ready to buy, have changed your mind, or still researching. Or advise them when you would be ready for a puppy. Do not ask to be on the active list or
expect special consideration unless you are ready to put down a deposit.
If you are not ready for a puppy but would prefer an older dog, some breeders have dogs that they are looking to place. Or consider one of the breeds Rescue dogs. Information is
available on the National Clubs website on Rescue Dogs.
Review your lifestyle before choosing a breed. Most pure breed dogs were bred for a "purpose". Please be sure that you are aware of what they were bred for, what their habits will be,
grooming, exercise required, and health problems. Be sure to ask the breeder about the specific questions about their breed.
Ask yourself the following questions:
Do I want small or large, what is the space I have available for this puppy when it becomes an adult.
Coat Type for shedding: If you have allergies stay away from long coated dogs. Choose a short coated breed.
Grooming: What type of coat to you have the time for grooming or the expense of sending the puppy to the groomer.
Activity Level: How active is your lifestyle? Are you a couch potato and want a dog that likes to cuddle. Or are you active and want a dog to go hiking?
Temperament: Are you looking for a friendly dog or a protective dog? Or a combination of both.
Stay clear of Pet Shops, they are NOT breeders. They have NO experience with breeds and will not be able to give you breed specific information. Plus health of the puppy should be
questioned. See the section on FAQ for Breeders.
Do not buy a puppy at first sight. Beware of impulse shopping. It is always better to think about it for 24 hours before you make the commitment.
Final and most important will you have time for this puppy? This puppy will have to go to obedience school. Are you available to put this time into the puppy? You will get out of your
puppy what you put into it.
We all want Canine Good Citizens.
Labrador Retriever Breed Standards and Characteristics
The Labrador Retriever is a strongly built, medium-sized, short-coupled, dog possessing a sound, athletic, well-balanced conformation that enables it to function as a retrieving gun dog;
the substance and soundness to hunt waterfowl or upland game for long hours under difficult conditions; the character and quality to win in the show ring; and the temperament to be a
Physical features and mental characteristics should denote a dog bred to perform as an efficient Retriever of game with a stable temperament suitable for a variety of pursuits beyond the
hunting environment. The most distinguishing characteristics of the Labrador Retriever are its short, dense, weather resistant coat; an "otter" tail; a clean-cut head with broad back skull
and moderate stop; powerful jaws; and its "kind," friendly eyes, expressing character, intelligence and good temperament.
Above all, a Labrador Retriever must be well balanced, enabling it to move in the show ring or work in the field with little or no effort. The typical Labrador possesses style and quality
without over refinement, and substance without lumber or cloddiness. The Labrador is bred primarily as a working gun dog; structure and soundness are of great importance.
Size, Proportion and Substance
The height at the withers for a dog is 22½ to 24½ inches; for a bitch is 21½ to 23½ inches. Any variance greater than ½ inch above or below these heights is a disqualification.
Approximate weight of dogs and bitches in working condition: dogs 65 to 80 pounds; bitches 55 to 70 pounds.
The minimum height ranges set forth in the paragraph above shall not apply to dogs or bitches under twelve months of age.
Short-coupled; length from the point of the shoulder to the point of the rump
is equal to or slightly longer than the distance from the withers to the ground. Distance from the elbow to the ground should be equal to one half of the height at the withers. The brisket
should extend to the elbows, but not perceptibly deeper. The body must be of sufficient length to permit a straight, free and efficient stride; but the dog should never appear low and long
or tall and leggy in outline.
Substance and bone proportionate to the overall dog. Light, "weedy" individuals are definitely incorrect; equally objectionable are cloddy lumbering specimens. Labrador Retrievers shall
be shown in working condition well-muscled and without excess fat.
The skull should be wide; well developed but without exaggeration. The skull and foreface should be on parallel planes and of approximately equal length. There should be a moderate
stop--the brow slightly pronounced so that the skull is not absolutely in a straight line with the nose. The brow ridges aid in defining the stop. The head should be clean-cut and free from
fleshy cheeks; the bony structure of the skull chiseled beneath the eye with no prominence in the cheek. The skull may show some median line; the occipital bone is not conspicuous in
mature dogs. Lips should not be squared off or pendulous, but fall away in a curve toward the throat. A wedge-shape head, or a head
long and narrow in muzzle and back skull is incorrect as are massive, cheeky heads. The jaws are powerful and free from snippiness-- the muzzle neither long and narrow nor short and
stubby. Nose-- The nose should be wide and the nostrils well-developed. The nose should be black on black or yellow dogs, and brown on chocolates. Nose color fading to a lighter shade
is not a fault. A thoroughly pink nose or one lacking in any pigment is a disqualification.
The teeth should be strong and regular with a scissors bite; the lower teeth just behind, but touching the inner side of the upper incisors. A level bite is acceptable, but not desirable.
Undershot, overshot, or misaligned teeth are serious faults. Full dentition is preferred. Missing molars or pre-molars are serious faults. Ears--The ears should hang moderately close to the
head, set rather far back, and somewhat low on the skull; slightly above eye level. Ears should not be large and heavy, but in proportion with the skull and reach to the inside of the eye
when pulled forward. Eyes--Kind, friendly eyes imparting good temperament, intelligence and alertness are a hallmark of the breed. They should be of medium size, set well apart, and
neither protruding nor deep set. Eye color should be brown in black and yellow Labradors, and brown or hazel in chocolates. Black, or yellow eyes give a harsh expression and are
undesirable. Small eyes, set close together or round prominent eyes are not typical of the breed. Eye rims are black in black and yellow Labradors; and brown in chocolates. Eye rims
without pigmentation is a disqualification.
BODY AND NECK
The neck should be of proper length to allow the dog to retrieve game easily. It should be muscular and free from throatiness. The neck should rise strongly from the shoulders with a
moderate arch. A short, thick neck or a "ewe" neck is incorrect.
The back is strong and the topline is level from the withers to the croup when standing or moving. However, the loin should show evidence of flexibility for athletic endeavor.
Body--The Labrador should be short-coupled, with good spring of ribs tapering to a moderately wide chest. The Labrador should not be narrow chested; giving the appearance of
hollowness between the front legs, nor should it have a wide spreading, bulldog-like front. Correct chest conformation will result in tapering between the front legs that allows
unrestricted forelimb movement. Chest breadth that is either too wide or too narrow for efficient movement and stamina is incorrect. Slab-sided individuals are not typical of the breed;
equally objectionable are rotund or barrel chested specimens. The underline is almost straight, with little or no tuck-up in mature animals. Loins should be short, wide and strong;
extending to well developed, powerful hindquarters. When viewed from the side, the Labrador Retriever shows a well-developed, but not exaggerated forechest.
Tail--The tail is a distinguishing feature of the breed. It should be very thick at the base, gradually tapering toward the tip, of medium length, and extending no longer than to the hock.
The tail should be free from feathering and clothed thickly all around with the Labrador's short, dense coat, thus having that peculiar rounded appearance that has been described as the
"otter" tail. The tail should follow the topline in repose or when in motion. It may be carried gaily, but should not curl over the back. Extremely short tails or long thin tails are serious
faults. The tail completes the balance of the Labrador by giving it a flowing line from the top of the head to the tip of the tail. Docking or otherwise altering the length or natural carriage of
the tail is a disqualification.
Forequarters should be muscular, well coordinated and balanced with the hindquarters.
Shoulders--The shoulders are well laid-back, long and sloping, forming an angle with the upper arm of approximately 90 degrees that permits the dog to move his forelegs in an easy
manner with strong forward reach. Ideally, the length of the shoulder blade should equal the length of the upper arm. Straight shoulder blades, short upper arms or heavily muscled or
loaded shoulders, all restricting free movement, are incorrect.
Front Legs--When viewed from the front, the legs should be straight with good strong bone. Too much bone is as undesirable as too little bone, and short legged, heavy boned individuals
are not typical of the breed. Viewed from the side, the elbows should be directly under the withers, and the front legs should be perpendicular to the ground and well under the body. The
elbows should be close to the ribs without looseness. Tied-in elbows or being "out at the elbows" interfere with free movement and are serious faults. Pasterns should be strong and short
and should slope slightly from the perpendicular line of the leg. Feet are strong and compact, with well-arched toes and well-developed pads. Dew claws may be removed. Splayed feet,
hare feet, knuckling over, or feet turning in or out are serious faults.
The Labrador's hindquarters are broad, muscular and well-developed from the hip to the hock with well-turned stifles and strong short hocks. Viewed from the rear, the hind legs are
straight and parallel. Viewed from the side, the angulation of the rear legs is in balance with the front. The hind legs are strongly boned, muscled with moderate angulation at the stifle,
and powerful, clearly defined thighs. The stifle is strong and there is no slippage of the patellae while in motion or when standing. The hock joints are strong, well let down and do not slip
or hyper-extend while in motion or when standing. Angulation of both stifle and hock joint is such as to achieve the optimal balance of drive and traction. When standing the rear toes are
only slightly behind the point of the rump. Over angulation produces a sloping topline not typical of the breed. Feet are strong and compact, with well-arched toes and well-developed
pads. Cow-hocks, spread hocks, sickle hocks and over-angulation are serious structural defects and are to be faulted.
The coat is a distinctive feature of the Labrador Retriever. It should be short, straight and very dense, giving a fairly hard feeling to the hand. The Labrador should have a soft,
weather-resistant undercoat that provides protection from water, cold and all types of ground cover. A slight wave down the back is permissible. Woolly coats, soft silky coats, and sparse
slick coats are not typical of the breed, and should be severely penalized.
The Labrador Retriever coat colors are black, yellow and chocolate. Any other color or a combination of colors is a disqualification. A small white spot on the chest is permissible, but not
desirable. White hairs from aging or scarring are not to be misinterpreted as brindling.
Black--Blacks are all black. A black with brindle markings or a black with tan markings is a disqualification.
Yellow--Yellows may range in color from fox-red to light cream, with variations in shading on the ears, back, and underparts of the dog.
Chocolate--Chocolates can vary in shade from light to dark chocolate. Chocolate with brindle or tan markings is a disqualification.
Movement of the Labrador Retriever should be free and effortless. When watching a dog move toward oneself, there should be no sign of elbows out. Rather, the elbows should be held
neatly to the body with the legs not too close together. Moving straight forward without pacing or weaving, the legs should form straight lines, with all parts moving in the same plane.
Upon viewing the dog from the rear, one should have the impression that the hind legs move as nearly as possible in a parallel line with the front legs. The hocks should do their full share
of the work, flexing well, giving the appearance of power and strength. When viewed from the side, the shoulders should move freely and effortlessly, and the foreleg should reach
forward close to the ground with extension. A short, choppy movement or high knee action indicates a straight shoulder; paddling indicates long,
weak pasterns; and a short, stilted rear gait indicates a straight rear assembly; all are serious faults. Movement faults interfering with performance including weaving; side-winding;
crossing over; high knee action; paddling; and short, choppy movement, should be severely penalized.
True Labrador Retriever temperament is as much a hallmark of the breed as the "otter" tail. The ideal disposition is one of a kindly, outgoing, tractable nature; eager to please and
non-aggressive towards man or animal. The Labrador has much that appeals to people; his gentle ways, intelligence and adaptability make him an ideal dog. Aggressiveness towards
humans or other animals, or any evidence of shyness in an adult should be severely penalized.
1.Any deviation from the height prescribed in the Standard.
2.A thoroughly pink nose or one lacking in any pigment.
3.Eye rims without pigment.
4.Docking or otherwise altering the length or natural carriage of the tail.
5.Any other color or a combination of colors other than black, yellow or chocolate as described in the Standard.
Enjoying Older Dogs In Their Golden Years
You are getting ready to leave for the dog show, hunt test, or field trial. As you reach for your car keys all action stops with the dogs and all eyes are on you. Who is going and who is
being left behind? The first dog to the door is your Veteran who throws a body block against the door. As you reach down pet him on the head you say "sweetheart you have to stay
home and watch the house, I will be back in a little while." Those big eyes staring at you now working on the quilt trip. Being a Retriever he gives it the old college try one more time and
pushes between you and the door. You wiggle out the door and get into the van. Pulling out of the driveway you notice him staring out of the living room window giving you one last guilt
trip. Your heart goes out to him but all his children and grandchildren have taken up the room in the van.
It has been documented that working and keeping your Veteran active and learning will help to keep him youthful and playful. What is also important is mental stimulation. Now that I
have put the icing on the cake for the guilt trip, here are a few suggestions to help you enjoy your older dog. First, get a bigger van! No just kidding. By just taking a few moments each
day to dedicate to your older dog you can make the difference. A simple walk around the block. While walking throw in some obedience commands to put variety into your walk and get
him thinking. Teach him some new tricks with positive reinforcements Sign him up for a Novice Obedience Class for some basic obedience. That hour of time is totally dedicated to him and
him alone, what could be better. You may even want to go for that Companion Dog Title that you have been putting off. Becoming a team and working with your older dog will bring back
that wonderful bond you had with him.
Since your older dog is usually calmer, another wonderful and rewarding experience is Pet Therapy. They are very sure of themselves, level headed, don't jump up, love a good back rub
and scratch behind the ears. It is easy to register your older dog with the Therapy Organizations. A simple Canine Good Citizen Test and Therapy Dog INT'L Test will get you started today.
Since Chesapeakes are natural hunters, if your Chesapeake is in good condition you can get your dog ready to run in the ACC's WD and AKC's Junior Hunt Tests. Take him to the next
training day and get him started. If he already has his titles, bring him anyway to run and have some fun.
Today the AKC has several classes that you can participate in with your Veteran. Besides the
breed conformation classes they also have Veteran Obedience Classes. These are fun and it is wonderful seeing these Veterans participate. If attending your National Specialty or
Supported Show sign up for the Veteran classes in both Breed and Obedience, Parade of Veterans and Title Holders.
These Veterans are a living pedigree, a blue print for the breed and future generations. So if you are attending your National or Supported and don't have a Veteran entered, you should
be their ring side applauding these great dogs and enjoy looking at the foundation stock of the breed. Generations of ancestors all gathered together is a memorable experience. If you
also get a chance, take a photo of your generations together. It is a priceless memory.
Remember before starting any activity with your Veteran, get a full health check up with your
veterinarian. Watch for any signs of stress or fatigue. Educate yourself on the foods and new
supplements for senior dogs. Keeping muscle tone in your senior dog will take some work so get
them out and about. Each dog will have their own limits, recognize the signs of these limits.
So look at that Veteran, get him off the couch and back into your lives. Enjoy him and keep adding to all those fond memories. I would like to do a follow up article on enjoying your
Veteran Dog. If you have any stories, suggestions, and thoughts on this issue please send them to me.
Chesapeake Bay Retriever Breed Standards and Characteristics
ORIGIN - United States
One of the few breeds developed in the United States around the icy bays of Maryland, he is one of the greatest retrievers of ducks and geese, especially in rough, frigid waters. Originally
developed from Newfoundland dog and bred in with local setters, coonhounds, and Irish waterspaniels to develop superior hunting and retrieving abilities. He was also bred to be a watch
dog. Recognized by the AKC in 1878.
HISTORY OF THE BREED
The story goes that around1807 an English ship was wrecked off the coast of Maryland. Fortunately, all hands were saved included two puppies. One was a reddish male named Sailor and
the other a young black bitch named Canton in honor the rescuing ship. The puppies wereof the St. John's Newfoundland breed, used at the time to help fisherman recover their nets.
Both were given homes in the Chesapeake bay area, and asa result of their predisposition toward water,were trained and used a s duck retrievers.
A large dog, averagingapproximately 80 pounds (some run larger or smaller) Barrel chested, wide head with wedge shaped muzzle, with a slightly elevated rear,and medium length ears.
His coat is coarse to slightly wavy, short, thick, and may have a tendency to be oily, waves on the shoulders, back, and rump only.Comes in shade of brown rangingfrom a light deadgrass,
some red tones, tans,and browns. A small white spot onthe chest, belly, or toes is acceptable. Eye sare a yellow or an amber. His teeth meet in a scissor or level bite. He has webbed feet to
aid in swimming.
TEMPERAMENT and GENERAL PERSONALITY
Happy and intelligent, very sociable and affectionate with the family with atendency to ignore strangers. Can be clownish and loves to play games which is one reason I refer to them as
Brown Clowns. Loves retrieving and swimming. He is the most rugged and powerful of the five retriever breeds. Can be reserved and protective with strangers. They should be well
socialized at an early age. This is a thinking breed which can get them into trouble.They do not tolerate isolation well since they are so bonded to their owners and family. Can become
destructive if bored or lonely. Dogs are generally dominate and possessive, they can be stubborn but respond well to positive obedience training. Although you must be consistent in your
training, loving but firm. A consistent hand will remind them who is in charge. They have a tendency to be pack leaders, so consistency is required. Caution when buying, please check to
make sure that the temperament of both parents are excellent and well socialized.
This is a bred that has not been ruined at this time by over breeding. However, they are susceptible to hip dysplasia, cataracts, PRA(Progressive retinal atrophy), hypothyroidism, and
eczema. When purchasing apuppy from a reputable breeder, make certain that the breeder performs genetic testing.
Chesapeakes require moderate to high daily. They love long walks, swimming, and retrieving A well exercised dog is less likely to be destructive, calm in the house.
Chesapeakes make wonderful family dogs.They have a deep love for children. The puppy should be well socialized and obedience trained. Please be sure that the breeder has bred for
companionship and never leave a child alone with any dog.
Usually good with other animals if raised with them. Some Chessies can be dominant, protective of their stuff, or predators. Introduction at an early age to other animals usually
works.However, difficulty can be 2 males.
Little grooming is required for the Chesapeake. A weekly brushing is required and if not swimming should be bathed every several months. Overbathing can develop into dry skin. Will
blowcoat twice a year, at this time daily brushing will be required.
Females: 21 to 24 inches Males: 23 to 26inches
Females weigh around 70 pounds. Males weigh around 80 lbs. Somewill be lighter or heavier. At no time should you be able to see the ribs or have love handles.
A coat that is curly all over the body. Black colored, white on any part other than breast, belly, toes, or back of feet. Teeth overshot or undershot. Dewclaws on hind legs.
Many of the photos and artwork you see throughout this site were taken by profession photographers. These professionals truly know how to capture the special nature of our canine
Isabelle Francais, Pet Profiles: Many of the photos used on this site were taken by Isabelle Francais. Her fine skill with a camera has captured many memorable moments.
Perry Phillips, Photographer: http://www.perryphillips.com/ Perry Phillips has photographed many of the Casbar family wins at dog shows.
|Some books available on aging dogs:
Anti Aging for Dogs
John M. Simon, St Martin's Press
Caring for Your Older Dog,
Chris Pinney, Barrons Educational Series
Dogs: The Ultimate Care Guide: Good Health, Loving Care, Maximum Longevity
Matthew Hoffman, Rodale Press
Old Dogs, Old Friends: Enjoying Your Older Dog,
Bonnie Wilcox and Chris Walkowicz, Howell Book House
Right From the Start,
Dr Race Foster and Dr Marty Smith, Howell Book House
|Credits, Links and Recommended Reading
American Chesapeake Club
All Breed Sites
American Kennel Club
Working Retriever Central
Working Retriever Central is the Internet's starting point for retriever enthusiasts having interests ranging from hunting upland birds and waterfowl to retriever
breed club working certificates, club picnic trials, retriever hunt tests and retriever field trials.
The Versatile Labrador Retriever
by Nancy Martin
The Labrador Retriever. The Dog That Does It All
By Lisa Weiss Agresta
Labrador Tales : A Celebration of America's Favorite Dog
by John Arrington, Labmed, Walt Zientek
A Dog Owners Guide to Labrador Retrievers
by Marjorie Satterthwaite
Love of Labs: The Ultimate Tribute To...
by Todd R. Berger (Editor), Bill Tarrant
The New Complete Labrador Retriever
by Helen Warwick, Thomas W. Merritt
Book of the Labrador Retriever
by Anne Katherine Nicholas
The Ultimate Labrador Retriever
by Heather Wiles-Fone
The New Labrador Retriever
by Janet I. Churchill
The Labrador Retriever
by Dorothy Howe
The Labrador Retriever: An Owner's Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet
by Lisa Weiss-Agresta
Guide to Owning a Labrador Retriever :
Puppy Care, Retrieving, Training, History, Health, Breed Standard (Re Dog Series)
by Richard T. Burrows
Labrador Retrievers for Dummies
by Joel Walton, Eve Adamson
|All graphics and photos are the property of Casbar Labradors (Registered). Please do not reproduce without permission